Utah's greatest natural wonders are also the world's greatest natural wonders. The plan to transport this "Gharguti Kombda" (house husband) smack in the middle of Utah's magnificent national parks at the second onset of the Covid-19 pandemic was definitely not hatched from my bucket list. That credit belongs to my travel-determined wife. As opportunities opened up, I found myself adequately vaccinated against Covid and influenza, and it seemed the most reasonable thing to do. Summer was almost over and schools had reopened after a long gestation. It was time to adventure into the wide open spaces with no crowds, or so I thought. I want to remind you, I don't have a bucket list because I don't plan on kicking the bucket. Bravo!
The flight to Vegas was uneventful. I found myself amused at being religiously told to wear my mask on the flight at all times, yet being served with peanut brittle, pretzels and a drink to wash them down at the same time when everyone was unmasked and chowing down on their goodies. I refrained and saved the snacks for later, and chugged my water in one gulp as I held my breath and immediately masked. Cheerful insanity I remarked. Upon landing I got my suitcase and headed to the rental car station, which can be reached via shuttle bus. A tantalizingly frustrating hour later I was finally on my way, GPS firmly positioned in the cup holder of my white Toyota Camry. Another inconsequential pitstop to gather some snacks and life-saving water, and I was finally on I-15 headed to Springdale, Utah and the first stop on my adventure.
ZION NATIONAL PARK, SPRINGDALE, UTAH
DAY ONE - I checked into the hotel and looked out of the balcony, which opened to a majestic view of the mountains of Zion NP. My only complaint was the temperature in the mid afternoon was 105°F and heat waves coming off the asphalt were shimmering my vision. After a quick bite to energize myself, I drove to Zion to get my annual NP pass as to soak in the majestic southwest mountain scenery. I took a couple of short hikes near the visitor's center and then drove on SR-9. This road winds through straights, curves and chicanes better than any racing circuit, even passing through the incredible Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel carved out of mountain rock. although hiking through the NP is the objective, I highly recommend allocating time to drive this most scenic and challenging road. Very much dangerous with blind corners and steep drop-offs is what makes it absolutely rewarding and awe-inspiring. Respect the speed limit and other drivers and leave your Michael Schumacher helmet and gloves at home.
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The view from the hotel room.
At the foothills I discovered a no-kill animal farm. |
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| The Castle Dome |
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| Yeah, that's me. :) |
DAY TWO - The next morning appeared to have everything going for it. The shuttle bus which was closed during the pandemic had restarted, first with reservations, but now it was entirely open and free of restrictions other than the mandatory mask. This solved our parking problem at the park. At dawn, after free breakfast, I looked to tackle the problem posed by the heat by starting early and already hydrating my body completely. My backpack was heavy with two cameras and bottles of water and every hike was up the mountain. I knew, very soon, heat, elevation and not properly acclimatized to the terrain would take its toll and leave me light-headed especially breathing through a mask on trails. My fears proved to come to fruition not so much as I went on the easy hike to the middle Emerald pool, but more so on the strenuous and fearsome Angel's Landing hike. As I guzzled through my water supply, I was fortunate enough to drink and refill my bottles at a water spring en-route back down from the Emerald Pool.
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| Entrance to ZNP |
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| The Court of the Patriarchs |
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| The Court of the Patriarchs |
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| On the way to the Emerald Pool |
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| The Middle Emerald Pool |
The hike to Scout's Lookout was one of the most difficult I've undertaken. The route is not so much dangerous as it is challenging from the heat. Here I was, at mid-day trying to tackle something I should have at 7 am. The view from Scout's Lookout is breathtaking and well worth the frustrating effort of navigating through several switchbacks. I embarked on the final chains section to the ascent to Angel's Landing. I stopped short of the peak when the chains gave way to an open section with steep unprotected cliffs on either side. Wisdom prevailed. I though it was foolhardy to attempt the summit without proper training, excessive heat, too much traffic going both ways, having a bad back that could leave me stranded, having to force some caring strangers to carry me down the mountain and me having nothing to prove. My wife would have to wait for me at Scout's Lookout for another hour (if I ever returned). In the past twenty years, no less than 17 people have lost their lives. 18 is not my lucky number and I wasn't going to make this mountain proud of me. I took a few shots with my camera and headed back, proud of myself having made the right decision. The Angel must wait patiently; there is always the next time when I return :)
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| One the way to Angel's Landing |
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| Refrigerator Canyon |
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| View from Scout's Lookout |
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| View from Scout's Lookout |
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| On the way down |
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| Cactus at Zion |
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Close up view of Zion from
hotel balcony |
BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK, BRYCE, UTAH
DAY THREE - I was thrilled when I realized I had to drive through SR-9 in its entirety , tunnel, chicanes and all to get to Bryce Canyon NP. After tell my children to slam on you brakes as hard as you can and steer to avoid an accident because you have anti-lock brakes and computer-aided traction control in their cars, I was able to practice it myself with my heart racing when I narrowly avoided colliding with the deer that jumped in front of my car. I wasn't even speeding beyond the speed limit or going very fast, yet I was reminded that disasters can strike at any moment. It would repeat again with two more deer and a golden retriever on the way from Bryce NP to Capitol Reef NP. It's not so much as damaging the car as destroying an innocent life that always worries me.
On the way to Bryce I got to see many scenic points as I travelled through Dixie National Forest. Around 10:30am, I was able to see my very first hoodoo in Bryce NP. At first glance, each hoodoo looks very much like the one next to it except it is very much unique. Each hoodoo possesses an individual characteristic trait and personality just like us. The park ranger told us vehemently to go down the steep Wall Street route and return coming up the gradual, less daunting Navajo Loop way to experience the amphitheatre. He wasn't kidding. While I was down in the valley I scanned the landscape for the famous Thor's Hammer. hoodoo. There was much bruhaha made about it during each conversation and article on Bryce. I never did get to see it. When I finally did stumble upon it after my return to Sunset Point, I found it to be a large hoodoo, but quite underwhelming. If you must see it, by all means do, just don't expect to be blown away. There are much better sights to experience in Bryce, Wall Street, the ancient spruce trees and glorious blue skies being some of them.
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| Welcome to Bryce Canyon |
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| Sunset Point Overlook |
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| Red Canyon |
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| The Silent City, Sunset Point |
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| View from the top of Wall Street, Navajo Trail |
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| Wall Street slot canyon |
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| Wall Street |
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| Wall Street |
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| 500-700 years old Douglas Firs |
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| Queen's Garden |
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| Closeup of the Hoodoos |
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| Thor's Hammer |
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| Bryce Amphitheatre |
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| Bryce Amphitheatre |
Note to the less researched, fly-by-nighters amongst you - don't forget to take a break and visit Mossy Cave on the way to Tropic. It is a beautiful little half-mile easy walk that leads to a cave structure that is only accessible from outside the Bryce NP. Best of all, it's a just off-the-road, crowd-free, hidden gem and this secret hideaway is free for everyone.
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| Mossy Cave |
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| Hike to Mossy Cave |
CAPITOL REEF NATIONAL PARK, TORRES, UTAH
DAY FOUR - As I headed from Bryce to Capitol Reef, through Escalante Grand Staircase National Monument, I avoided hitting two deer and a dog. It prepared me for what was to come next, which was a completely foreign experience for me. I saw a sign "Caution - Free Range" with a black shape of a cow. I immediately drove with heightened vigilance. Behold, in a few miles I was treated to cattle grazing openly next to the side of the highway, some even crossing the road leisurely chewing cud. They live here until they meet the butcher; we're only visiting, I reminded myself.
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| Welcome to Capitol Reef National Park |
If I have a Utah NP bias, it's for Capitol Reef NP. Sweeping vistas, Mountains, valleys, canyons, gorges, hoodoos, red stone, white stone, Native American petroglyphs, Mormon graffiti, gravel roads, paved roads, awesome short and long hikes, and even a fruit orchard and bakery, this place is blessed with them all. Capitol Reef is a world within itself, before the arrival of man. I thoroughly enjoyed my time here.
Originally settled by Mormons in the late 19th century, Capitol Reef NP is probably the least visited of all parks. There is no entry station, you either already have a pass or you place your money in the collection box on the honor system. The drive was long and tedious, so I didn't arrive for my first hike until almost noon, thereby missing out on some cooler weather and longer hikes. I drove on the very dusty Capitol Gorge Road to get to the hiking point. The hike through the gorge is easy, albeit over rough terrain and there is little to no climbing. The views are always gorgeous. About half way through the hike you'll see the Pioneer Register, which is nothing more than 100 year old graffiti. Yesterday's graffiti is today's treasure. At the end of the gorge I was treated to two small tanks, which are tiny pools of water. The lower tank is easily accessible, but the upper one requires climbing on rocky terrain.
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| Parking at the Capitol Gorge |
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| A hiker in the distance at Capitol Gorge |
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| The Pioneer Register |
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| Nineteenth Century historic graffiti |
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| Capitol Gorge Entrance |
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| Outside Capitol Gorge |
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| The Castle, Capital Reef |
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| A view from the Goosenecks |
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| Chimney Rock |
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| Stagecoaches |
On the way out I stopped to admire Chimney Rock, Goosenecks Overlook, Sunset Point and Panorama Point before resting back at the hotel. After a quick shower, rest and meal, I headed back to Hickman's Natural Bridge for a solo hike. Since I was alone, i was able to pick up the pace and move faster, while pausing for longer times to take better photographs. I found this hike to be the most rewarding. although the hike was moderately challenging, it is only a mile long, and I was treated to breathtaking cliffs, domes, mountains, vegetation and variety of terrain before reaching the bridge loop. Hickman's Natural Bridge is every bit as rewarding as the best arches at Arches NP. My only regret was I didn't get to hike Chimney Rock Trail and the Cassidy Arch. Next time.
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| The Castle |
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| The Capitol Dome |
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| The Pyramid |
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Another bridge just before Hickman's Bridge
A family was left scratching their head, disappointed
this was the real Hickman's Bridge. |
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| Finally, Hickman's Natural Bridge |
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| Hickman's Bridge from the other side |
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| One of the many beautiful sights at Capitol Reef NP |
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| The Capitol Dome |
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| The Capitol Dome glowing gold in the setting sun |
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| Chimney Rock (closeup) |
ARCHES NATIONAL PARK, MOAB, UTAH
DAY FIVE - Located a stone throw away from the beautiful town of Moab, lies the famous Arches NP with its more than 2,000 documented arches, including the Delicate Arch (which graces Utah's vehicle license plates and is the definitive symbol of wild and free Utah) and the Landscape Arch (the world's longest free-standing natural Arch). Since I was in Moab for two nights I could allocate my time between various monuments at Arches and Canyonlands.
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| Welcome to Arches NP |
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| The Landscape Arch |
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| Let's go mountain climbing. NOT! |
Honestly, there is so much to be said and so much to be seen at Arches NP, that there's nothing for me to add than what has been already described in great details in a million books, blogs and websites. I'll simply let he photographs and captions do the talking. I would mention that the Delicate Arch is definitely as spectacular as described and the challenging hike is rewarding in itself. I also urge you to hike Devil's Garden Trail to see the Landscape Arch as it is widely acknowledged that it will fall in our lifetime.
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| Park Avenue |
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| The Landscape Arch |
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| The Tunnel Arch |
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| The Pine Tree Arch |
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| Hiker at Devil's Garden Trail |
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| Canyon at Devil's Garden |
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| The Skyline Arch |
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| The Balanced Rock |
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The star of the park
The Delicate Arch |
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| A rainbow appeared after I left the Delicate Arch |
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| Petroglyphs from 1600s |
CANYONLANDS NATIONAL PARK, CANYONLANDS, UTAH
DAY SIX - Canyonlands NP is Utah's largest NP, large enough to be divided into three regions; Islands In The Sky, The Needles and The Maze. With 300 or more miles of hiking trails and countless canyons, it is a hikers paradise that beckons its wilderness to be explored. But what do you do when you're running out of time, tired and need a break, or if you're just not a fan of hiking? One of the other lures of Canyonlands is that one can experience quite a lot by stepping out of your car or going on many of the less than half mile kikes. With more time needed back at Arches as planned, we did just that. This is a park I'll have to visit once again. The Mesa Arch is a must see early in the morning. Don't miss this extremely effortless hike to see one of the most beautiful views in Utah.
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| Welcome to Canyonlands NP |
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| The Mesa Arch |
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| Whale Rock |
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| View from the top of Whale Rock |
OLJATO MONUMENT VALLEY, ARIZONA
DAY SEVEN - The famous scene (I don't dare call it iconic because it isn't) from Forrest Gump motion picture can be seen from the highway. There are also a few convenient places to park your vehicle on the roadside. However, if you want to see the iconic Mittens and other places you must enter the Navajo Tribal lands. An untold number of western classics have been filmed here. Noon is not the ideal time to visit, but that is precisely when I did. The entire trail is gravel and dusty and only fifteen vehicles are permitted at any given time. Best bring an AWD Subaru.
After seeing the five majestic NPs in Utah, I found Monument Valley to be a stop gap location on my way to Antelope Canyon. It can be so much better if people were able to hike and observe the monuments up-close. There are no maps and whatever few signs that are posted identifying the monoliths are very vague and non-descriptive. Will I visit again? Yes, but only to show my support to the Navajo Nation and its people. So much has been stolen from these people over the centuries, and they have been neglected for so long, I almost feel it is my reckoning to give back. They are the reason I am in this country. I can't right the wrongs, I can only do the right thing. I urge you to do the same.
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| The Wilson Arch |
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| The East Mitten |
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| Elephant Butte |
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| Three Sisters |
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| Camel Butte |
ANTELOPE CANYON
DAY EIGHT - Finally, my last stop on the trip had arrived. and I caught a much deserved break stopping in Page, AZ. Antelope Canyon is divided into two areas, the upper and the lower canyons. Both are exclusively accessed only by getting a Navajo Nation tour guide. Places and times are limited, so book early and tip your guides well. It's their only source of income. To get the best pictures, sign up for the photography tour as it is more leisurely and you can carry more equipment and a tripod. Unfortunately, I didn't.
Both the the ride to the upper canyon and the canyons themselves are dusty. Pandemic times or not, wear a mask for your own sake. Removing the mask is immediately frowned upon by tour guides. If strapped for time, I'd prefer to visit the more intriguing and more delicately sculpted lower canyon. The carvings in the rock, a result of millions of years of erosion by mother nature and water are hypnotizing. Few geological formations in the world are as beautiful. I'll let the pictures do the rest of the explaining.
UPPER CANYON
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| Entrance to the Upper Canyon |
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| Canyon exit |
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| Outside the canyon |
LOWER CANYON
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| James the best tour guide ever |
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The Canyon exit.
Who would have thought there's a wonder
down there? |
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| Horseshoe Bend, Glen Canyon NRA, Page, AZ |
FINAL THOUGHTS - "Which is my favourite destination?" one might ask. Each place was so magical, so unique, so majestic and each captivated me and and touched my inner soul in so many different ways, I really couldn't pick just one because I would be doing injustice to the others. You shouldn't either. Remember when I told you that I didn't have a bucket list? Now I do. I want to visit each park again although I have no plans to kick the bucket. I'll answer the next question, "Who am I going with?" "YOU!"
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Capture you life. Dictate your legacy. Don't let anyone else do it for you. :)
